Dutch Cuisine: the Herring obsession of the Netherlands

Fri, Nov 2nd 2007, 00:00

Herring is the most popular seafood in the Netherlands. In street cafés, restaurants and bistros, herring is a popular lunch item, served on toast and accompanied by a nice cold beer.


Herring has been a staple ingredient in the Dutch diet since the Middle Ages. A Dutch proverb goes ...Haring in't land, dokter aan de kant ... which means If herring is around, the doctor is far away.

When Willem Breukelszoon van Biervliet discovered his technique of gutting herring in the 14th Century, it meant that the fish could be cured and preserved on board ship. This enabled the Dutch to stay at sea for longer fishing periods.

Herring fishermen became prosperous. In fact it is generally believed that Dutch herring fishermen became the traders that brought the Dutch to their Golden Age, the most affluent period in their history.

Preserved herring can be sold all year, but it is Hollandse Nieuwe (New Herring) that is considered a special treat. When the fishing fleets head out to sea in early May for the first catch of the season, celebrations are arranged in every port to await their return.

Traditionally the first ton of salt herring unloaded was given to the Queen. The Koninginneharing (Queen's Herring) is considered the best herring around, and is put on auction in the last week of May. This auction officially opens the herring season and the weeks that follow see a round of herring parties and festivities.

Hollandse Nieuwe is only available from the middle of May to the middle of July. There is a proper way to eat it – straight down the hatch! You pick the fish up by the tail, between your forefinger and thumb, put your head back and let it slide into your mouth gradually. Good green herring melts in your mouth, tastes soft and slightly salty.

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